Monday, November 25, 2019

Frankenputer I9 - New Wolfhouse computer named Nancy

Frankenputer I9 - a new Wolfhouse computer named Nancy

After (6 years) of running a Dell XPS Intel I7 4000-series, it was time for keyliner to get a new computer.  This article describes the parts and the assembly.

For the past dozen years, I bought pre-built Dell XPS computers, which are better-than-average computers for serious home and business users.  But Dell's current XPS line were, until recently, lackluster, with I7's and spinning hard drives.

As of 2019.12, Dell improved their lineup, and now their XPS machines have all of the features expected, but the price starts at $2,100.  I could home-build a similar machine at a better price.

Building a PC from parts (aka a "Frankenputer") is not hard, but it requires attention to details.  This article gives an overview of the parts, and steps, building a mid-to-upper range quasi-gaming machine.

This article contains links on where I bought products.  There is no compensation.

Parts List:

* If I were a better shopper, in less-of-a-rush, the total would have been $1,380.

Real-world Speed Difference

It is fun to compare speeds of the newly-built I9 with my older Dell XPS I7-4000.  Both are running the same OS, and both are using the same versions of software.  There is a noticeable difference in everything but browsing:

The I7, spinning HD, cold-boots to a Windows 10 login in 54
The I7, 1st Gen SSD, cold-boots to Windows 10 login in 32
The I9, M.2 drive, cold-boots to Windows 10 in 9 seconds*
*The new video card and video drivers added 4 seconds to the boot time.  The I9 used to cold-boot in about 4 seconds.

Time to open an 800-page document with 400-linked illustrations.  (This is a WordPerfect C# Programming techniques book):

I7, spinning HD:  4:20 seconds
I7, SSD:   (forgot to test, prob about 3 minutes)

I9, M.2: 1:40

A more reasonable 60-page document, with linked illustrations, had these load times:

I7 with SSD: 0:46 seconds

I9, with M.2 drive: 0:07

Parts Discussion:

The CPU:

An Intel I9 chip is about $100 more than a top-of-the-line I7.  If building a machine of this class, spend the extra money and help future-proof the computer.  I did not consider an AMD chip.

The I9 has 8 Cores, plus 8 virtual cores, for 16 total CPU's.  I do not know how to take advantage of this. 

Intel makes a variety of I9 chips, and it was difficult to choose the right version.  Models allowed overclocking, differing wattages, desktop/laptop, etc.

Because this is a desktop, with lots of cooling-capacity, I bought the 95-watt version.  A less-power-hungry 65-watt is available, but for a desktop, I wanted the best speed.  (I am not particularly concerned about the electricity because the computer is idled most of the time.)

Purchased from BH Photo (but all prices, all vendors, are the same).


Once the chip is selected, decide on the motherboard.

The I9 requires an LGA1151 motherboard, with two chipsets on the market:  The older 370, and the newer Z390. 

The Z390 has better USB 3.1 support (second-gen 10mb/s), along with USB-C.  Most importantly, it can hold two M.2 drive slots (more on this shortly).

Motherboarding is a busy market, with lots of competition and products.  I decided on the ASUS Z390-A motherboard, having some trust in the ASUS brand -- plus I liked the white trim. 

This is a better-than-average board, and was $30 more that a comparable I7 board, adding slightly to the I9's real cost.  There are wildly-more expensive gaming boards on the market.

This was purchased from BH Photo.

The motherboard has several unused USB-2, USB-3, and USB-C "header" ports along the right-side.  These can be exposed to the outside of the case with optional slot-cover ports.  I did this.  Now my PC has an amazing 13 USB ports exposed!  This is nuts.)


The CPU needs a heat-sink, and I chose an inexpensive Coolmaster Hyper212.

This model uses a large fan, powered by the motherboard, and comes with a clip-mount for an optional second fan on the other side of the stack.  The heat-sink sports four/eight heat-pipes, and a tall aluminum radiator.  It is 'scary-big,' but light-weight. 

Reviewers consider this a low-end heat sink, not recommended for heavy gaming, but is adequate for my needs.  I thought water-cooling was over-the-top.

Instructions were pictographs (wordless), with subtle steps mixed-in for both Intel and AMD motherboards.  The intermingled instructions had similar, but slightly different parts.  For example, the Intel chip uses small plastic spacers, which were almost missed in the illustrations.  Another faint difference was in the metal motherboard stand-offs.  Intel's were black, AMD's were silver, and were perhaps a millimeter different in height.  The instructions quietly noted the two different parts with subtle-shading.  This was hard to see without paying religiously-close attention! 

By far, this was the most stressful and worrisome part of the build.  If installed wrong, with the wrong stand-offs, or forgetting a spacer, an expensive CPU could fry. More details on how this works is near the end of the article.


The Motherboard has four memory slots and accepts a variety of different memory speeds.  Practically speaking, total capacity is 16GB, 32GB, or 64GB.  Other combinations are crazy.  When buying memory, match all chips with the same brand and speed; hence the three practical sizes.

I chose a mid-range speed of 2666hz, installing 2 DIMMs, 8G each = for a total of 16G. 
The RAM will be doubled to 32G later in the year.   If doing this again, I would have bought the 3000hz chips, which were only a few dollars more.

I purchased "Corsair Vengance" DDR4 2666, with heat-sinks, $70 -- with an intention to buy from Crucial, but because of an order-screwup (my fault), I bought the Corsair memory locally, and because I was in a hurry, I paid $90 from a small PC shop -- the only place in town I could find them.  Meanwhile, BestBuy, Crucial, and even 7-11, sell the RAM for $70, although all were out-of-stock.

Power Supply (PSU):

This machine will never be stressed for power, but that didn't stop me from buying an 850W Corsair Power supply from BestBuy.  I was after a "cable-bus."  Each cable was separate and could be plugged into the ports on the left-side of the box.  In other words, only install the cables needed.  This vastly simplifies wiring. 

The Cable-kit includes a dozen SATA connectors, extra power for high-end video-cards, CD-ROM, and even Floppy disks.  Choose the ones needed, store the remainder.  A big power supply, using only a few cables is perhaps over-kill, but this made for a neat and tidy install.

Cheaper power supplies hard-wire all of the cables, like a giant octopus.  There would literally not be room in the case - cables would have been everywhere.  On older PC's, tucking-away unwanted cables was a chore.  New case designs (see below), have no room for an excess wad of cables.  A pluggable bus is now a requirement.

My machine used two required motherboard cables, one SATA, and one PCIe Video-card power-cable (which is new to this class of machine).  

NVMe M.2 Hard Drives:

1-Terabyte spinning hard-drives are now dinosaurs (but dirt-cheap:  I saw a 3T for $70!).  But now, even SSD solid-state drives are passe'. 

In my hand is a 1Terabyte solid-state drive.

The new drive standard is something commonly called an M.2 drive (NVMe drives).  This is the most interesting change in computers.

The M.2 drive standard is 20-times faster than a spinning disk and 6 times faster than an SSD.  The drive plugs directly into the motherboard,with no cables, bypassing SATA.  The motherboard needs to be designed for this.

This is a generation 2 drive, (PCIe M.2 2280), with a transfer rate of 3,500 (Megabits) per second -- faster than generation-1 drives. 

Speed differences between spinning HD, SSD, and M.2 Gen-2:

Treat M.2 drives exactly as you would any other drive.  Windows recognizes automatically at installation, and in day-to-day use.  

Install by slipping into the motherboard's slot, and tightening one screw.  I spent most of my time deciding which of the two motherboard slots to use -- the ASUS manual was unclear.  After much study, I used the heat-sink slot, even though this was further away from the CPU.  The chosen slot was correct.

Prices when I bought last week were $200, and I am already seeing them for $160.  1-Terabyte Generation 1 drives are selling for $100.  Remarkable.

Be aware there is an older type of drive that uses this same form-factor, but the pins are different; this is a variant of a SATA drive.  Sorry, I did not catch which model this was, but its through-put is around 550mb/s.  To confuse matters more, there is a newer standard called "U.2", which I have not researched, nor does this motherboard support it.

Video Card:

Don't use motherboard's built-in video.  Although the motherboard supports both DisplayPort and HDMI, it pulls processing from the CPU, along with a good-chunk of RAM.  Instead, purchase a slotted co-processor video card.  Even when buying pre-built computers (Dell, HP, etc.), I ignore the onboard video and install a dedicated graphics processor.

My goal is to have two video-out ports for dual monitors, but even with one monitor, I would still use a dedicated card.

For my project, the requirements were:
  • NVidia chipsets (vs Radeon) - a personal preference. 
  • PCIe 3.0 Bus (PCI Express, Generation 3)
  • 4G Ram
  • 2 DisplayPorts  (Personal preference)
  • Inexpensive (fat chance)
The Asus Z390 motherboard supports PCI Express Gen1, Gen2, and Gen3.

Choosing the video was time-consuming.  The market has hundreds of boards and brands, ranging from $60 - $80, up past $1200.  Shopping sites do not do well at filtering these requirements, and most required reading the detailed specs to find the bus speed and port configurations.

Regardless of price, almost all cards had three video-out ports, but most were a mixture of 1 port each, DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort.  This drives me batty.  I cared about the dual ports because having dual monitors is a pain when mixing HDMI and DisplayPort cables.  You have to fiddle with either different video cables, or with dongle-adapters.   I wanted a graceful dual-head video card.

Cards with dual DisplayPorts limited my choices.  

In general, low-end cards were PCIe (Gen2), usually with 1G RAM.
With PCIe Gen-3, the prices started at $120.
The dual-Display Port raised the minimum price even higher.

Wanting these ports is admittedly a luxury, and it forced me into spending an unexpected $160 on an EVGA GeForce GTX 1650

Most video cards of this caliber are slightly longer, and have two side-by-side fans.  I didn't like this, thinking the PC and its case already had too many fans.   My chosen card trades-off the second fan with a thicker heat-sink, making the card less-long, but thicker -- this card occupies three slots spaces on the motherboard and case.  I still think this was a good decision -- a bigger heat-sink is better than more fans.

Oddly, at-least to me, it needed a cable-run from the Powersupply.  This messed-up my perfectly-clean cabinet interior (see the case-design, below).  In any event, gamers would not be surprised at this.

[Of interest, and amazingly, any PCI-express video card, any generation, will fit in any motherboard  slot -- even if the slots do not match the size.  Mis-matching a long card into a short slot (where the card's footprint sticks out past the edge of the slot) will still work, but performance suffers.  Putting a short number of pins into a long slot will also work, but this type of card will be a PCIe 1x or 2x and will not benefit from the longer slot.  This is remarkable.]

External Case:

Although PC cases have long standardized around the ATX design, there have been surprising changes in how they are organized.  Hiding cables is now a primary goal.  The cases accomplish this with two tricks:

First, the power supply is now at the bottom of the case, hidden in its own compartment.  Cables snake along the back of the motherboard, through rubber grommets into the main area.  Unused, or extra-lengths of cables are tucked inside this hidden compartment.

Secondly, the motherboard is mounted on an interior pony-wall -- a fake back.  This leaves a 2.5cm / 1-inch space behind the motherboard for cable management.  Illustrated is the back side of the case.  There are dozens of tie-downs.

This is beautiful, and was not possible with previous case-designs.   My PC is not this pretty, but it is close.

On my machine, and in this illustration, an SSD drive (my backup drive) is mounted on the back of the motherboard's plane, away and out-of-sight.  The SATA power cable climbs unseen from the hidden PSU area, directly to the drive.  The data-cable goes from the SSD, through a near-by grommet, only exposing itself for a few centimeters.

The cabling-side is covered with a metal cover, making this side of the PC just like every other PC.

The other side of the PC, where the motherboard faces, is clean and austere.  Wires do not cross the center of the case!  No drives are visible.  Cables are mostly invisible, only peeking out where they connect.  It is a minimalist's dream.  

It is so attractive that the other side of the case is clear, tempered glass, exposing the inside for all to see.  Can't say I am thrilled with this, but this is all-the-rage.  So too are colored lights.  I will give them a chance.
The Corsair-brand case I bought was from a local computer store (RJM Electronics; these guys are sharp!).  A similar case can be found at BestBuy.

Click for larger view

Other case observations:

Non of the mid-size computer cases I looked at had exposed drive bays.  No room for DVD drives, or SD-card-slots.  The reason, "nobody uses these anymore."  Instead, the front of the case is devoted to cooling fans.  Often they are lit with colored LED's (which can be disabled).  Larger, full-sized cases have front-facing drive-bays, but these cases are huge.

Nicer cases, including this one, have washable dust-filters on the bottom of the case, filtering the air inbound to the PSU.  
The front panel is magnetic, covering the 3 large fans, and it too has a washable dust filter.  Finally, the top of the case is an air-vent (heat rises), with a third magnetic filter.  These are nice touches, and are now common on higher-end cabinets.

Other features to look for are rubber-covered wiring holes and look for rolled metal edges on all surfaces.  Pre-installed front fans, with wiring and lighting circuits, save trouble and expense.  Although low-end cases are $50 to $60, spend the extra $30 dollars on a nicer case.  It is a pleasure.


Problems with the case

If you have a spinning hard disk, there are two drive bays are in the bottom of the case, near the power supply.  It is a tight-tight fit, and these are not expected to be used.  I removed the cage to make more room for hidden cabling.  There is no place for a DVD drive, forcing you to use an external USB laptop drive.

The power button, and two exposed front USB 3.1 ports, are top-facing (illustration above).  These are difficult to reach when the PC is tucked under the shadow of the desk.  The USB ports are particularly hard to see.  I wish these were front-facing, even if the case were another inch taller.

The motherboard has several jacks/ports for external USB2, USB3, and USB-C, but the case has no way to expose them, except for the two on top.  Slot-cover ports can be purchased separately to make use of these ($20).  I actually stole one of these from a bone-yard PC.

With all the fans inside this PC, it is still quiet, but not silent.  A faint hum can be heard from the front.  If not a gamer (where you drive the system hard), use the BIOS to slow the fans.  On the ASUS board, the setting was "Optimize Fans."

This completes the review of the selected parts.  Assembling them into a final product is relatively easy, and is not particularly technical.

Assembly Instructions:

a.  Decide which power supply (PSU) cables are needed.

The motherboard needs two large power cables -- they are obvious, and only fit one way.  Find both power-ports on the motherboard, and find their matching PSU cables.  Lightly test-fit the cables to make sure.  Plug the other end into the PSU's bus.  

Decide other power-cables. 

The front-fan LED lights use a SATA power-connector.
The SSD data-drive D uses a SATA data cable and SATA Power. 

Expensive video-cards require a power-cable from the PSU.  These are marked as PCIe.

Plug these cables into the bus.  Store all other non-needed cables in the garage, where you will never find them.

Screw-in the PSU into the case using 4 screws.  Make sure the fan is pointing down (it draws air from the bottom of the case, through the filter.  Don't rest the PC on deep carpet.

b. On the motherboard, install the CPU Heat-Sink's mounting bracket and stand-off posts, per instructions.  See cautions near the top of the article.  Review all steps and make sure this is done right.  There are lots of chances to orient the mounting brackets upside-down, or left-to-right.  Follow the instructions carefully.  

Lightly test fit the monster heat-sink on the motherboard, without the chip.  Noting my heat-sink had different screw positions for Intel vs AMD, and noting the base has one orientation.  Confirm the screws line-up.  Remove the heat-sink

c.  Slip the motherboard into the case, rotating the port-side first, then laying the board flat.  You will feel the port-side panel snap into the case's back opening.  All mounting holes should line up.  If not, remove the board and re-position the metal stand-offs, as needed.  My experience has been all boards line-up with the case without adjustment.

Screw the board in place with phillips screws. 

d.  Install the M.2 drive, per the motherboard's instructions, using a single screw that comes with the motherboard.  These are uniquely-sized screws and stand-offs -- hard to find if lost. My motherboard has an optional M.2 heat-sink, which I think is a nice-to-have, but would not go out of my way to find one.

e.  Install auxiliary, secondary drives.  I bought-over an older SSD (D: drive) from the Dell XPS, and mounted this drive on the back plane of the case's pony-wall.  Snake a SATA cable to the first SATA port on the motherboard.  Connect the SATA power-cable from the first step.

f.  Wire-in the front-case fan power cables, plugging them into the motherboard's case-fan connectors.  These are well-marked in the motherboard's owners manual.  The plugs can only be inserted one-way.  I had three fans, three plugs.  If you have colored LED fan lights, power those, as illustrated in the case's manual; mine used a SATA power connector, and I shared the same cable as the SSD drive.
g.  Install RAM.  Always install in pairs. 

All paired DIMMs must be the same speed and size, and I recommend they be the same brand.  If installing only two DIMMs, they will be in every-other-slot (A1, B1) vs (A2, B2).  Be sure to pick the right row for A1; see the motherboard manual for details.  Orient the DIMMs by noting the slot on the bottom connectors.  They snap into place and are easy to install.

h.  Plug-in the case's front-port power-button, front-facing USB ports, and audio-jacks into the motherboard, using wired-jumpers, illustrated.  These are a pain.

Look at both the motherboard's manual and the case-manual to see how to do this. 
Orient the motherboard manual (the page showing these jumpers) in the same direction as the installed motherboard.  Count the stupid-little pins, then make the connections.  This is not rocket-science, but it is tedious and worrisome -- always wondering if you did this right.  Count, and double-check. Probably no harm if done wrong, but the machine may not power on.

This is still an old-fashioned operation, the same as it was in the 1980's.  I use needle-nose pliers to help plug in these little wire-jumpers.  You would think after all these years, this could be standardized with an easier connector.

i.  Install the I9 chip, following the I9's instructions.  

This is literally lift-up a lever and drop the chip into the socket.  The chip orients one way, using tiny side notches.  Again, not rocket science, but use some care as this chip is expensive.  Do not touch the contacts.  Do not turn on the PC without an installed heat-sink.

j.  Apply a pea-sized dab of CPU heat paste (that comes with the heat-sink).  Use a business card to spread the paste evenly over the CPU.  The layer should be moderately-thin -- you do not want excess to squeeze out.  You will not use the whole tube of paste.

The paste is devilish and sticks to everything.  Wrap the used business card in a plastic bag and throw away.  This stuff is tenacious and gets everywhere.  Treat it like hazardous waste.

k.  Carefully land the monster heat-sink onto the paste, with as little movement as possible.  Screw the heat-sink onto the mother board, tightening every-other-screw, moving in a circle around the chip.  This will be a tight, with pressure on the chip.  Once mounted, you may be able to rotate the heat-sink a degree or two to square it to the motherboard.
l.  Install the optional video card into the slot nearest the CPU.  My video-card required an auxiliary power cable from the PSU.

Remarkably, the PC is ready

Plug in a monitor, keyboard, mouse. 
Plug in a power-cord for the PSU. 
Flip the PSU's rocker switch to On.  (This does not turn on the PC.)

Plug in an external USB DVD drive (assuming you have the OEM version of Microsoft Windows; purchased separately), or use a downloaded Windows 10 setup on a USB thumb drive.

Ponder and worry if you did everything right.  Then, with a leap-of-faith, turn on the PC using the case's power-button.

Watch the screen for a BIOS prompt.  Usually pressing F2 or DEL, depending on the motherboard.  This opens the BIOS (hardware setup) screens.  Browse around, checking the date-time, confirm the drives appear, etc.  Basically, snoop.  Don't worry about overclocking, or other esoteric settings.  Locate the fan settings.  If you are not a gamer, you can slow them down, making for a quieter box.  On the Asus, this was "Optimize Fans".  Usually, press F10 to save changes.

Allow the PC to boot into Windows 10 setup.  Install Windows, following the normal Microsoft on-screen prompts. 

My PC took about 4 hours (total time) to assemble, including time pondering pictorial instruction manuals.  If I could build a second one, I'd bet it would take less than an hour. 

Add to that a half-hour to install Windows, and another 4 hours patching the OS (sigh).  Then you get to spend the next two days installing apps, printers, etc.  The time is enjoyably spent. 

This article was written on that PC. 

This was loads of fun, and the machine gives some bragging rights.  Friends ask what I am doing with this monster, to which I reply, "Mine-sweeper" and Notepad.


Links of Interest:
Nancy needed a new keyboard:  Logitech G513 Backlighted Keyboard


Friday, November 1, 2019

WordPerfect X5 now X9 - Quick Review

WordPerfect X5, now version X9 - the venerable Word Processor. Brief comments about this product.

I'll keep comments short, because most of you are snickering - WordPerfect -- are you nuts? I suppose. But I do know this: In another window, I am editing a 1,800 page document with 900+ illustrations.  Not once have I lost a graphic, or been confused with a  tab-settings.  Not once has a weirdo-bullet list made me yell at the computer.  Word would puke.

2019 Update:  WordPerfect is now at Version 19 (x9).  Same menus, same features as their first Windows version.  This is not a second-rate product.  It is better than Word.  And the price is right.  Buy the Student version for something like $45. 

Things like tabs, margin-releases, indented paragraphs, and graphics with word-wrapping, all work  effortlessly. If you are fiddling with the ruler-bar each time you need an indented list or header, then you are working too hard -- and I'd bet you are using Microsoft's Word.

WordPerfect understands word processing; it is not an after-thought.  It lives and breaths documents. You will find this an easy-to-use, fluid program. 

In Word, can you remember having to backspace an entire sentence just to get rid of a bold or underline that wouldn't go away?  In WordPerfect, this doesn't happen. WP exposes everything about the document, including *all* hidden codes, viewable as you type!  This feature is called Reveal Codes.  This is why people use WordPerfect.

(Click image for larger view; click right-x to return)

In the image above, note the Revealed Codes at the bottom.

You can see the paragraph-block protect codes, bolds, underlines, and margin-releases. Anything you can do to a word, sentence, or even an individual character, is exposed in this window. These codes are editable, deletable, and selectable from Reveal Codes.   This is done without switching modes and the codes are always visible (if exposed - and everyone exposes them).  Cleaning up codes can be done with the keyboard -- a mouse is not required.

These codes are unobtrusively resting at the bottom of the screen, occupying about 5% of the editing space.

Compare this to Microsoft Word, which can show tabs, carriage-returns, and a few other measly codes -- but that is all.  How many times have you wished you could see the bullet-list codes so they could be deleted?  When word does show codes, it clutters the editing space like a train-wreck.

Here is how it looks in Word.  This is sad:

WordPerfect  Home and Student Edition:

I recently upgraded from WPX3 to X15 (skipping version 14, now at version X9) -- for no other reason than I wanted to see the latest editions. 

You get the following in the Home/Student edition:
  • WordPerfect
  • Presentation - similar to Powerpoint
  • Quattro - Spreadsheet, similar to Excel
  • Lightening - a Note-taker program

The other programs, particularly Presentation, are probably swell, but I have no need. If you do not already own an office suite, then this is an added bonus. The suite has a lot of features.  The price is right.

WordPerfect is not Word

WordPerfect operates differently than Word.  Here are the most important points:
  • Take 5 minutes and learn how Reveal Codes work. This is not the only reason to use the program, but it rates top-on-the-list.

  • When making a font-change, tab, margin, etc, the change happens where the cursor is, and flows through the bottom of the document (or until stopped by another related setting).
    There is no need to highlight a 17 page document to change the font.
    Just move to the top of the document, and change the font. Same with line spacing, default tab settings, etc.

    If a setting is changed in the middle of the document (say a page-footer), that change takes affect from that page, onward.

    In other words, it is easy to change headers and footers and previous pages are unaffected!

    This is noticeably different than Word.   Word frustrates.

  • Highlighting a sentence, paragraph, page, and then making a change -- it only effects the highlighted text; everything else remains as it was -- this includes margin changes! 

    Make the change in the highlighted area, and all settings just after the highlight remain as they were.  The previous, un-highlighted settings "flow" around the change. Word never figured this out. 

  • When changing a block of text, changing the font, margin, or other settings, conflicting codes within the highlight are removed and replaced with the new values. This is exactly what you want to happen.
  • When making a font-size change, never highlight the text and change the point-size.  Instead, press the F9-font-shortcut-key, and select "Small", "Large", "Extra-Large", etc.. 

    This way, if the default font changes from 12 points to 11, all of the resizes happen automatically.  This flows through font changes, from Arial to Century Schoolbook, etc.

  • When first installing the program, make this one, highly-recommended settings change:

    Tools, Settings, Display:
    Set mouse to be active in Text (I wish Corel would default this setting)
    Trust me on this; it makes the program behave more naturally)
  • Inserted graphics must have about 50 different options that don't exist in Word.

    For basic graphics, it works as you would expect. Graphics can be dragged anywhere on the page, with no restrictions on Left, Right, Middle.

    Graphics can easily be anchored to characters, paragraphs, or pages, with complete control over word-wraps, captions, borders, etc.  This is vastly easier to manipulate than Word, with more options.   These changes can be made with the mouse, or more commonly with a keyboard, for repeatable results:  Graphic -3.5" from Right Margin.
  • Numbered lists work properly.  No surprises.  And all is visible in Reveal Codes.

  • If you like indented and hanging paragraphs - everyone does - press F7 to indent. 
    It just works.  No fiddling with the ruler bar.
    Backtabs work too.

    Unlike Word, indents can move more than one tab-stop - making deeply-indented paragraphs. Once indented, word wrap will be just the way you like; no need to fiddle with the ruler-bar or margins.

    With a similar keystroke (Shift-Tab), you can have a hanging paragraph on the left-side of the margin -- all without using the mouse or ruler.
  • To center, use the mouse and the toolbar, or press Shift-F7.  Unlike word, a line can have left-justified, centered, and right-justified, all on the same line.  See the link below for School Term Papers, Headers and Footers, to understand why.

As you would expect, it can read and edit Microsoft Office Documents, Open office, and 40 other formats. It has full PDF features (writing to PDF is built in). It can save in .DOCX and other formats.

You can legally load it on your desktop and laptop at no additional charge (see license).

Final Thoughts:

If your new PC came with an expired trial version of Microsoft Office, consider paying $45 (Amazon), and buy the WordPerfect Office Suite.  I recommend using the Home/Student edition; you likely don't need the Standard, Professional, or Legal versions.

You will get a capable spreadsheet (not quite Excel, but not bad), and a fabulous word processor, along with other software and training materials.

30-day demos downloadable from

Write one term paper, or one long document with footnotes, graphics and font changes, and you will be hooked. Things like printing envelopes and mail-merges work easily and intuitively. I expect you will like this program.

Related Articles:
WordPerfect - Hanging Indents / Paragraph Headers
WordPerfect - Block Protect Text Across Page Breaks
WordPerfect - Using WP for School Papers - Page Numbering

2019: This article was updated to include references to newer versions; text was tightened to be more forceful.  I should update the graphics some day...  I still adore this program.

Tuesday, October 22, 2019

Raspberry Pi Pi-hole Network-wide blocking of Ads, tracking, and popups

How-To: In two hours, with no previous experience, you can build a small "DNS Sink Hole" that can block ads, tracking cookies, popups, and email-trackers -- all by using a small $50 computer called a Raspberry Pi. 

But most importantly, questionable sites, such as ransomware and other scams, are blocked at the network layer, long before your browser has a chance to see them.

This works for all devices in your network, including all desktops, laptops, phones, and tablets.

You no longer need to install ad-blocking software.  All the benefits happen for all devices behind your router -- and you do not have to configure them to gain the benefits.

This replaces a previous Keyliner article:
Stopping Tracking Cookies with whack-a-mole - blocking DNS using Acrylic DNS.

The Raspberry Pi becomes a dedicated computer that handles all DNS (Domain Name Service) requests -- taking the function away from your existing routers.  When an address, such as "" is typed, a request goes to your Domain Name Service.  It translates the human-readable name into an IP address.  If the address is nefarious, or an ad-network, the packet is discarded, keeping the traffic from reaching the device.

As of this article, the device blocks 107,000 domains (illustrated), now 116,000 domains.  Here is a chart showing the normal traffic at my house, with blocked requests in blue.  Of the 13,000 requests, 2,500 were blocked:

Raspberry Pi, you say?

To make this work, build a small dedicated computer using a device called a Raspberry Pi.  Then install DNS software called "Pi-Hole" (an open-source, community-developed Domain Name Service supported by hundreds of volunteers).

"I don't know anything about that!" Neither did I!

And yet, with zero experience, I built the PC, installed the operating system, and configured everything -- all in about two hours.  The operating system and DNS software are free.

You can do this! 

What is a Raspberry Pi?

A Pi is a small computer, running Linux and costs about $50.  It has 4 USB ports, an HDMI Video port, an RJ45 wired network jack, Bluetooth, a wireless adapter, and a slot for an SD-card drive. You do not need to know Linux to build this project. 

I found this model on Amazon, which included a case, power-supply.

I also like this model (where you supply your own cell-phone 2.5A charger), or this model.  These are all similar, except for cosmetics, accoutrements, HDMI cables, and the like.  I noted carries the same products, with free shipping for the same cost.  I am not getting a kickback on these links or ad revenue.

I am using an older Raspberry Pi 2.0.  Version 3b is now available.  Either will work.  A Pi 2.0 can easily support up to 2M DNS transactions per hour -- well within the realm of a 50 workstation network.

You will also need the following:

HDMI cable to connect to your TV or monitor (temporary, just for setup).  The cable may be included in your kit.

Short .5 or 1 Meter (2 - 3 ft) Ethernet patch cable ($5)
Wired or wireless Keyboard (borrow from your PC)
Wired or wireless Mouse (borrow from your PC)

16GB (recommended) or 32GB Micro SD card, with adapter. 
This is often included in the purchased Raspberry Pi kit:

The SD card acts as the Pi's hard drive.  Note, this is the Micro SD card, which is much smaller than a postage stamp.  Buy these at any electronics or office store.  Shop around for the best price (expect about $10).  Buy the card with a standard-sized adapter so it can plug it into a laptop or desktop's SD slot.

Before staring the buildt, some research is required.

Important Prerequisites

A.  From your PC, discover your IP-address pool-range with these geeky but easy steps:

From a DOS / Command prompt (windows-R, "CMD"), type this command:

ipconfig (enter)

* Note your IPV4 address, illustrated.

Yours will probably read something like    (mine happens to be

* Note the Default Gateway (mine is - This is your main router.

B.  Decision

If your workstation's ipv4 address is below 10, such as  or,
write-down, and later use, this fixed IP address:

This will be the Pi's new internal IP address, where the first three octets will be the same as your workstation and "151" is probably beyond the largest value the home router will provide.  

If the displayed IPV4 address is something like (or some number higher than 9), then consider using this IP Address for your soon-to-be-built Pi: (-now in retrospect, it is probably safest to always use a .151 address because this address is beyond most auto-assigned addresses).

Technical notes for those who care:  Home routers assign automatic DHCP addresses to each workstation on the network using a range or pool of numbers.  This range varies by router manufacturer.  Some start at 2 - through 100, others start at 10 through 150.  The range does not matter, but the Raspberry Pi needs a number from outside that range.  With admin rights (see immediately below), login to the router's 100.1 address, and confirm the exact "DHCP" Address range.  But the steps above are a good-enough approximation, and .151 is likely safe in all normal cases. 

C.  You must be able to login to your main Router's admin screen to complete this project. 

If you have a secondary (Wireless) router, that router may be the one reported on the DOS screens above.  Use that address for all following steps.  If the secondary router has an IP Address of .2, ignore it and do all the work on the .1 address.  With two routers, this can be complicated.  Do the work on your workstation's .1 router.

Open a browser.  In the URL line, type your router's main IP address -- illustrated in the DOS screen above as the "Default Gateway."  The first three octets will be the same as your workstation's address.  The last octet will most likely be a dot-1. 

For example,  

(also typical are addresses like this: .  Your network may be different.  The main router's last octet is almost always dot-one.). 

D.  Look on the side of the router for a printed label that shows the admin login ID and password, or you may have recorded the password when the network was first built.

Login with "admin"  (usually, lower-case-a)
Confirm you can login and get to the router's administrative screens.

You must be able to login to your router's admin screens before continuing.  If not, consider this keyliner article, and this one.  Your ISP or the person who setup your original network may be able to help. 

Raspberry Pi Hardware Setup

A new Raspberry Pi is a small circuit board.  Snap it into the kit's plastic case, and if the kit came with self-adhesive heat-sinks, apply them now. 

Next, download and install the Linux operating system with these steps (this step can be skipped if your raspberry kit came with a pre-installed NOOB operating system; if so, jump to step 4, but if you have the time, do these steps for the most recent versions.):

1.  From a PC, go to the Raspbian download site and download the "NOOBS Offline and Network".  This download is slow and will take several hours (they have a slow network connection and it probably has to cross the Atlantic. 1.7Gig file.):

Save the .ZIP to a known location.

2.  Insert the MicroSD card into your PC's card-reader.

The card must be a 16GB or 32GB card (64GB is too large).
If prompted, format the card - format it like you would with any disk or USB thumb drive.

3.  On the PC, using File Explorer, open the .ZIP and copy all files and folders within the .zip to the SD card's root directory.

(Important:  Do not copy the .zip file -- copy the contents inside the zip. 
Use Copy-and-Paste -- not Cut-and-paste.  Do not click-and-drag

Details:  To copy, double-click .ZIP to open.  
               On detail side. click the first file/folder. 
               Shift-Click the last file/folder.
               Hover on the highlighted files, "other-mouse-click", choose "Copy" (not cut)

               Find the SD Card drive (On my PC, this showed as Drive G:"
               In the details pane, other-mouse-click and chose "Paste"

Once copied, eject the SD card.

The .zip is no longer needed and can be deleted.

4.  Remove the Micro-SD Card-insert from the SD-card adapter.
  • Insert into the Raspberry Pi's card-slot
  • The SD-card installs "up-side-down," into the board's slot
  • Push until it clicks in place

5.  Connect the HDMI cable to a TV or Monitor  (I used my TV).
  • Connect a USB Keyboard (borrow from your desktop; can be wireless)
  • Connect a USB Mouse (can be wireless) If you have a Cat-5 cable and can easily connect to the router, do so now.  Otherwise, you can use a wireless connection for the initial setup.
  • For the initial setup, use either a wired or wireless connection.  Wired is preferred. 

    For a Wired RJ45:  If near the main router, connect an RJ45 network cable to any open port on any router.  (Do not plug in to the router's "uplink" port (plug into one of the 4 or 8 port areas)).   Connect the other end to the Pi's RJ45 port. 

    If Wireless, continue with the USB power supply step.  Note: Later, you must switch to a wired connection.
  • Connect the USB 2.5a power supply to the Pi.  (Any 2.5a micro-USB cell charger will work.  Usually supplied in a the Pi-kit.)

The Raspberry Pi will boot; visible on TV.  You may need to switch the TV's INPUT to find the right HDMI port.

Raspberry Pi Operating System Install

6.  When the Pi first-time boots with the new SD-card installed, it will arrive automatically at the Raspian Operating System Installation screen.  Select the top-most Raspberry PI operating system,

[x] Raspian Full (Recommended)

Click the Install button on the ribbon bar. 
Install takes apx 45 minutes.  When done, it will boot to a desktop.

Black Screen:  I had troubles when partway through the install, the TV showed "signal not found."  The TV was routed through a stereo, and the stereo would go into power-save mode.  Rebooting the stereo returned the TV's Pi image.

When prompted:
  • Select Country:  (e.g. United States)
  • Language: (e.g. note American English, British English) 
  • TimeZone:  (oddly by City name)
  • Important:  If United States, you must click the [x] US Keyboard option
When prompted for the Admin password:
  • Change the admin password to a password of your choosing
  • Write the password on the checklist above

7.  Network Decision - Wired or Wireless:

If the Pi is currently connected to a Wired network, allow the Pi to auto-update and patch.

If using a wireless for the install, See the top-menus. 
(Most modern Pi's have Wireless built-in)

Right-click the right-side wireless-strength icon.  Configure the SSID on WLan0, etc., connecting the Pi to the wireless network, much like any other device.   The wireless connection is temporary and can only be used for initial setup.  Later, it must be changed to a wired connection.

7a.  Allow Pi to auto-update and patch. 
  • After patching, the Pi will reboot
  • After patching, re-enter the Location, Keyboard, and Admin password, when prompted

7b.  At the Raspberry-top-menu icon,
  • Click "Raspberry-pi Configuration", "Interfaces"
  • Enable SSH  (allows remote desktop control - handy for geeks; do it now, while convenient)

At this stage, you have a fully-installed, fully-usable copy of Linux.  Pat yourself on the back because you are good!

8.  Optional Cleanup Steps:

The Raspian operating system comes pre-installed with extra software that is not needed for this project.  The Raspberry Pi and Pi-hole software will run as-is, but if you are geek, and don't mind spending another hour, consider uninstalling the following programs.  This will make the Pi faster and leaves more space on the drive for logs and updates:

From the main Linux desktop, top-menu, open a Terminal Window.
Type these commands, pressing ENTER after each.  If software is not found, press the up-arrow and double-check the spelling, or move to the next command.

Answer with "Y" (capital Y), when prompted:

a.   sudo apt-get purge wolfram-engine
b.   sudo apt-get remove --purge libreoffice* 
c.   sudo apt-get purge sonic-pi
d.   sudo apt-get purge scratch
e.   sudo apt-get purge greenfoot
f.   sudo apt-get purge geany
  g.   sudo apt-get purge nuscratch
h.   sudo apt-get purge python-pygame
i.   sudo apt-get purge pygame
j.   sudo apt-get purge squeak-vm
k.   sudo apt-get purge dillo
l.   sudo apt-get purge minecraft-pi
m.   sudo apt-get purge penguinspuzzle
n.   sudo apt-get purge oracle-java8-jkk
o.   sudo apt-get purge oracle-java7-jdk
p.   sudo apt-get purge openjdk-8-jre

If any of the above, reboot.  Then follow with these two commands:

x.  sudo apt-get clean
y.  sudo apt-get autoremove --purge

Update the OS with this command:

z.  sudo apt-get update && sudo apt-get upgrade -y

Optional software is now de-installed.  Approximately 2G of disk space is freed.

The next step is to install the Pi-Hole DNS Server software.

Install Pi-Hole DNS

Once the operating system is installed and patched, install the Pi-Hole software:

9.  On the Raspberry Pi's top-menu, open the "Terminal Window" (command prompt)

  • Type this case-sensitive command. 
    Note the "-sSL" -- is very case-sensitive.  Note the split-vertical bar:
  • curl -sSL | bash

10.  Answer these prompts:

"This installer will transform your device into a network-wide ad-blocker" 
tab to the OK button, press Enter

  • You may be prompted to: 
    Choose eth0 for the hard-wired port
    (This must be selected even if using wireless during the base install)
  • Accept Google (or OpenDNS) as the upstream DNS Provider
    I prefer Google,  knowing the Pi subscribes to the same lists as OpenDNS
  • Accept the default third-party list; tab for OK
  • Choose IPV4 (not IPV6) for the protocol

!!!  Important:  When prompted
!!!  "do you want to use your current network settings as a static address"
  • -- tab to "No"
  • Press Enter 
  • If this step is missed, press ESC and restart at the CURL step.
(Reason:  Set a static, hard-coded IP-address on the wired network.  I would not accept the suggested static address, as it is within the public pool.) 
  • For an IP Address, set a "Static" / fixed/hard-coded IP address, found and written down in the prerequisite steps:
  • Type the Raspberry Pi's IP-address, from the prerequisites (it was either xx.5, or xx.151).
    Backspace and type the full address, appending a trailing "/24" --  (slash /24 sets the subnet mask to

    Examples from your prerequisite/decision:   or etc.
  • Set the Default "Gateway" to the same address as your workstation's Gateway IP Address. 

    This is the main router's IP address; the same as your workstation's main router address.
    See the checklist, above:

    Typically:    ( etc.)

  • Allow it to install the Web Admin Interface
  • Accept Log Queries, ON  (recommended)
  • (If the install goes "south," reboot the PI and restart the curl command.)

11.  At the "Installation Complete" screen  (wait for this prompt.  If problems, restart at the curl command.)

Step away from the keyboard and
carefully write down the insufferable "Administrative login/password"
and the set-installed IP address.

For example, my machine showed:   Password: xxxxxxx______________________

12.  Change the Pi's admin password.  Do this now, while it is easy to get to these screens:

From the main desktop, open a terminal window.

Type this command:
pihole -a -p

Follow the prompts to change the password.
* Record this final password in the checklist above.

The Pi-Hole is now fully configured and ready to use. A moment of self-congratulations is in order.

Pi Final (Production) Wiring Steps:

Using the top-Raspberry menu, shut-down the server.
Unplug the HDMI cable; The monitor is no longer needed.
Unplug the Keyboard and Mouse; these are no longer needed.

13.  Move the Raspberry Pi to a location near the main router. 

Using a short Cat-5 Network cable, plug in the Raspberry into any available port on your router. A hard-wired connection is required.

For example, my home network looks like this, where the Pi was connected to an 8-port switch.  It could have been easily connected to the DSL or Wireless router's open (yellow) port -- any open port can be used, where there are groups of 4 or 8 network jacks.  Do not plug it into the up-link port (a lonely port, usually a different color):

* If your network is run only on the optional (secondary) wireless router (with a .1 address), plug the Pi into that wireless router.

Plug in the power adapter. 

Give the Pi a minute to boot and get settled.
Note the activity lights on the Pi's RJ45 network port.

(See this keyliner article for a photo of my home setup)

14.  Initial Test: 

From your PC-workstation, open a DOS / Command Prompt and ping the Pi to see if it is on the network.  Type this command:

PING  (or 0.5, or 1.151, etc)

It should reply in xx milliseconds.

Router Setup

The final step is to configure your router(s) to point to this new Domain Service. 
These changes are required in order to activate the Pi. 
This is a one-time setup.

For most households, the main DSL or Cable-Modem router (the box with a .1 ip-address) is the one which needs to be changed, but some networks may use a secondary wireless router as the main router.  In any case, make these changes on the workstation's .1 router. 

A.  Login to the main router's  address (as tested in the per-requisites, above)

Typically, type this address in the URL address bar and press enter.
Your address may be different:

B.  Login with "admin" and the previously-recorded password.

The main setup screens vary by modem manufacturer.  Several examples are illustrated below:
  • Usually under an Advanced Configuration menu
  • Look for a DNS Setup section
    (or sometimes DHCP/DNS)
  • Look for
    "Dynamic DNS" (or "Auto-DNS", or "use these DNS Servers", depending on modem)
  • Change to:
    Static DNS or "Use these DNS Servers"...
  • At the Primary DNS, type the IP address of the Raspberry Pi.
    For example, on my network,  (or, from your prerequisites)
  • Optionally type a Secondary DNS (not necessarily recommended)
    (Or use an Open DNS address, documented at the end of this article)

    I leave my secondary blank, as the Pi already defaults to your favorite secondary DNS as part of its initial install.  If the Pi fails, I want the network DNS to shut-down and not find an alternate path.  See the end of this article for more discussion about this. 

    Some routers require a secondary DNS (and one must be typed).  If so, use  But, if you want to force all DNS traffic through the Pi, use a dummy secondary address of  I personally like the option.  Again, see the discussion near the end of this article for reasons. 
See the red-section, directly below for other modem examples.

C.  Important:  Save the changes by clicking this screen's SAVE or APPLY button.  Do this before moving to any other screen.  The router will reboot.

Example Modem Setup Screens:

My Zyxcel DSL router looked/s like this:

Click for larger view

* Some of newer models of routers require a secondary DNS
-- Used Google's -- which is redundant because this is the go-to address used by the Pi, or better yet, use a dummy address of to disable this feature:

Click for larger view

* A typical Linksys router looked like this, where in this case, the network was (should have been

* Another version of a linksys router looked like this, where the pi-hole's address of, was added:

* A NetGear Genie AC1450 looked like this, where the Raspberry Pi was the primary and again, Google's DNS was set as a secondary:

Click to enlarge


D.  If you have a secondary, wireless router (rare for most households), typically at, look to see if it needs to be configured. 

Login to that device's admin screen by opening a browser and typing the wireless router's IP Address
typically:,   (but could be something like See your prerequisites)

Login to the administrator's screen, again with a default password likely printed on a back label. Snoop-around the setup screens (Basic Setup, Advanced Setup), looking for a DNS Server. 

Usually these routers use the main router for DNS and likely, you will *not* find a DNS Server setting (don't confuse with DHCP -- which is probably disabled).  If DNS settings cannot be found, jump to the Testing steps. 

If a DNS entry is found, make similar DNS changes.

*Note:  If you can't login to the router's admin screen -- and often you can't while passing through a wired network, consider the following:

1.  Use a wireless device to reach the configuration screens.  Or,

2.  With a laptop or desktop,
     Run a temporary hard-wired RJ45 connection directly from the PC
     to any available yellow-port on the wireless router.

3. Reboot the PC to get a new IP address.  IPConfig to see your new IP Address.
4. Try logging into the dot-1, dot-2 IP Address again.

Raspberry Pi and Pi-hole configuration is complete!
I recommend the following tests and recommend logging into the Pi-hole's admin screens.  These topics are covered next.

Oher Devices
Most computers and devices on the network (desktops, laptops, tablets, phones) are set to automically connect to the net using DHCP.  They get their address and domain services from the router.  No other action is taken.

If you have a device with a hard-coded IP address, typically a printer or perhaps a TV, then manually set that device's IP Address, Subnet, and DNS.  For the DNS, use the Raspberry Pi (e.g. -- but practically speaking, these devices are not used to surf the web and dumb humans won't be doing anything strange on them.  In these cases, set the DNS directly to Google's or the Raspberry Pi; I use on my TV and Printers.


Ublock Origin, illustrated
To properly test, disable the workstation's locally-installed ad-blocking software.  Reason: Ad-blockers also block traffic.  The difference is they block the traffic *after* it has downloaded where-as the Pi keeps them from ever downloading. 

You may or may not have ad-blocking software installed.  Look in your browser's Tools, Add-Ins menu and look for "adblock-plus" or "uBlock Origin" (the two most commonly used blockers).

If installed, close the Add-in screens and look on your browser's upper-right menu bar, looking for a UBlock Origin or an Adblock-plus icon.  Click the icon and temporarily disable the ad-blocker.

Test 1: 

This test makes sure the network is functioning properly and you have the routers pointing to the right DNS-resolver (the Pi-hole).
  • From your normal workstation, browse to
  • If you arrive, the DNS is working correctly.
Test 2:
  • Browse to
  • Note "holes" in the page -- blank spaces, illustrated below in orange.  There are being snuffed by the Pi-hole.
  • Be sure adblockers are disabled or this test will be distorted.
  • Note "holes" in displayed page. These are never transmitted; speeding up page-loads.  The drawback is content providers cannot monetize their content.  There are moral and ethical considerations; see the end of this article for a discussion.  On the other hand, they are often abusive and can (accidentally) provide malicious content.
Click for larger view

Test 3:
  • Attempt to browse to - a nefarious site
  • Note how pi-hole blocks the address.  It may look like this or this, depending on your browser:

    or this:

  • Browse to  (an email tracking service that uses one-pixel white images on emails to track if you opened the email).  As-of this article, you will likely succeed and arrive at the site.
  • Consider "Blacklisting" this and other such sites.  See the blacklist later in this article.
  • Note that *all* devices in your network benefit from the Pi.  And, more importantly, none of the devices need to be told about the setup -- it just works.  But if your device (cell phone, tablet, laptop) strays from the network, the Pi's benefits are lost.

Side-notes:  If the domain is on the naughty-list, the Pi dumps the DNS request into a dark hole, hence "pi-hole."  As of this article, over 116,000 domains are in the discard list.  If the address is on the good-boy list, it is handed off to (Google's) Domain Services.  Google resolves the address normally. 

Most home routers use your ISP's Domain Name Services, for example, CableOne, Century Link, Comcast, etc., and some ISPs have been known to slip-stream their own advertisements into your data-stream(!), replacing ads with their own.  With the Pi-hole (or Google's DNS,, all DNS calls are resolved with a trustworthy source.

Testing:  Simulate a pi-failure:

Unplug the Raspberry Pi's power and attempt to browse any site from any workstation. 
You will find no internet addresses resolve*.  In other words, the Pi is required to be online -- just like your router is required to be online.  Restart the Pi and give it a few minutes to boot and repeat the test, confirming the network returned to normal.

(* If you typed a secondary DNS in your router, traffic routes to the secondary address when the Pi is offline.  This is good and bad.  The secondary will resolve domain addresses, stopping a catastrophic failure, but you will not know the Pi is offline and will lose the benefits of nefarious-site-blocking.  If your router forces a secondary DNS, consider using a dummy  ip-address of  This will force all traffic through the Pi -- making the Pi, once again, a critical component.)

What happens under the hood:

When a device tries to resolve a blocked domain name, the DNS service drops the request in the hole and discards it.  The target domain does not even know a call was attempted.  No graphics, scripts, or other code runs from that site.  Similarly, if a page has embedded code that reaches out to other (blocked) third party domains, those domains are dropped; the code will think no network was available.  This is a win-win for you.

Cell phone and table surfing, using the local networks, display s ugly "webpage not available" in the middle of the article -- this is likely an advertisement and likely that ad is recording your PC's IP address and other information.  The 'page not available' message is the Pi-hole at work, discarding the traffic.  Each application or browser decides how to handle the error in its own fashion.

Many applications and browsers show white-space where the ad lived -- with no obvious errors. 

The neat thing about this is the vendor never knew you attempted the connection because it is blocked before the traffic left the house.  You won't be tracked, monitored, or recorded as you read articles, and big advertising graphics won't download.

Note: Some ads are now being hosted directly in the target's internal pages.  If the main site can be reached, those types of embedded ads will be allowed through.  This is hard to trap.

As seen on the administrative screens, here is a snapshot of recent activity after a few random seconds of activity.  My TV is busy on the network, playing Pandora.  I caught a Nest Thermostat checking on the daily weather.  This traffic was allowed to pass. 

Click for larger view

But "" was blocked.  This is Microsoft collecting diagnostic data for the Consumer Windows Experience program; see link Infoworld article.  The Pi-hole team decided this was intrusive, and added this address to the blocked domain list.  From the admin panel, it could be white-listed with a click.

This report is where I find ad and email tracking sites.

Pi Administrative Login:

Test the administrative login.

From any browser, type the Pi's IP address/admin:                (press enter)

On the left-nav, click Login, using the Pi's administrator password (changed and recorded in the setup steps).  The Dashboard displays.  There are two areas of particular interest:  White and Black lists.

White Lists:

For sites where you want to support advertising, such as the NewYork Times, allow them their ad-revenue by adding their domain to the Pi's white-list.

If you decide to keep your browser's ad-blocking software installed, you will also have to add the domain to that program's white-list.  With this said, I would de-install adblockers from your desktop clients -- but leave them installed on laptops that might travel outside of the pi-network.

Add these domains to the Pi's whitelist    (Microsoft; used by Outlook; Media Player)  (reported by Windows Media Player)

Black Lists:

Keyliner recommends manually adding the following to the Black List -- especially the Email tracking addresses. These are addresses I have discovered, that have not made it to the Pi's official lists. From the Pi-hole's administrative login screen, manually blacklisted these additional sites.   As of 2019.10, some of the sites are now on the Pi-block lists.  It does not hurt to still add them.

When black-listing; always add as a "WildCard":       new (unsure) seems to be a tracking site      #email tracking  #email tracking     #email tracking      new  #email tracking

crownpeak           new         #email tracking  #email tracking         new       #email tracking iko system also velocify     #email tracking       #email tracking       #email tracking  #email tracking         #Note the .co, not .com      #email tracking    #email tracking    #email tracking      #email tracking    #email tracking        #email tracking         #email tracking    #email tracking     #email tracking      #email tracking, now hubspot    #email tracking
streak.comp       #email tracking      #email tracking Velocity Pulse       #email tracking

Researching: I have been looking at this site to see if the address is in their whitelist or not:

De-Installing the Pi:

From the admin screen, temporarily disable the Pi for (5-minutes, 10-minutes) while testing.  When disabled, all requests pass through to (Google's) DNS service, and all Pi-protection is lost.  Note: This was specified in the Pi-installation screens -- and this is not your router's secondary DNS setting.

To permanently remove the Pi-hole from the network, re-edit the local .1 Gateway router(s), changing the Static DNS field

from (  or, etc.)
to Google's DNS:

A worse choice would be to return the Routers to "Auto-DNS" -- this would put you at the ISP's mercy.

Click "Save".  The router will reboot.

Once changed, the Pi can be unplugged and removed from the network.  No workstations or other devices need to be told of this change.

Known Problems:

Some sites, especially those that show the "top 100 celebrity before and after photos" will be blocked.  Reason: These are trolling sites, with obtrusive ads and with possible fly-by installs.  These sites were deemed dangerous, and were blocked by the Pi-hole community.  Trust their decision.

Sadly, every other type of web failure will be blamed on the Pi. 

My experience is the Pi has not been wrong, but the family will blame the Pi for all network problems.

To test if the Pi is causing a problem with a site, use the admin screens to temporarily disable the Pi-hole.  Re-test the site or page in question (see side-illustration, directly above).

If the site still malfunctions, then the Pi is innocent.  The Pi does not interfere with non-blocked sites.  If the Pi blocks the site, it almost always has a good reason for doing so.  If you trust the blocked site, and insist on arriving (overriding thousands of volunteer's opinions), add the domain to the white list. 

Pi-hole and Ad-blocker Ethics

A word about publishers who need revenue to keep producing content.  Ad-blocking, and the Pi-hole, cut into these revenue streams. But the current model of using third-parties to display ads is broken.  With this, we might want to let the New York Times broadcast ads, but the ad-sites are being blocked as a third-parties -- and it is not possible to allow an exception without allowing the same ad-network across all sites. 

Many publishers now detect ad-blockers, such as Ublock-Origin, and refuse to display the content.  The Pi-hole can sometimes dance around that restriction.  In other words, disable the locally-installed ad-blocker, and often the Pi-hole can do the blocking undetected.

Ultimately, as the industry matures, publishers will be forced to host the ads on their own site and ad-blockers, and the pi-hole, will be less effective.  In other words, you can't block the New York Times completely, or none of the content will show.

The other side of this argument is obvious:  Publishers and Advertisers have abused ads.  Displaying annoying ads, ads that occupy most of the screen, non-dismissable ads, and small articles broken into dozens of pages, all to force ad-impressions.  Abuse is everywhere.  This is why Pi-hole exists.

2019.10 - Pi is still doing a fabulous job.  Completely unattended.  Every few months I review logs to see what is going on.  A few weeks ago, a visiting friend could not get to sites.  The Pi folks must have thought the site low-quality, with a lot of spam.  I whitelisted for him.  This is my first-ever required white-list.

 2019.01 - I completely rebuilt the Pi, with new OS and new versions of Pi, using these same instructions.  The new version looks and acts identically to the old.  And, as before, all is well.  Still very pleased with the device.  I added more bling to this article to make it easier to follow.  This is an admittedly a complex project.

2018.06 - Six months and the PI is still going strong!  Still a fun and recommended project.

2018.03 - My spouse was trying to login to a site to pay a bill.  The site turned out to be a phishing site from an email (never click links in email!).  The pi intercepted.  Spouse complained she could not login.  The Pi saved our checking account that day.

Related Keyliner Articles:
This is the way I used to do this -- manually blocking about 50 high-volume sites.  With this article, I now block 100,000 sites!
Stopping Tracking Cookies with whack-a-mole - blocking DNS using Acrylic DNS.

Learn more about the pi-hole project here:

Related Thoughts:
Some routers run Linux under the hood and can be re-programmed to run a pi-hole directly on the router.  After reading this article,, my co-worker reviewed such a project.  The router seems to be the best place to run this type of process, but not all routers can be re-programmed, and this takes skills which are more simply done on a Pi-hole.  Ultimately, he reported back (unspecified) troubles and abandoned that solution, returning to a simpler Pi-hole.

Instead of Google's DNS, you can use openDNS's ip address. 
These are now options on the Pi-hole's installation screens: or

OpenDNS also has a "Home" service that blocks phishing sites, porn, acting much like the PI.  Use these addresses on your router, instead of this project, for a simpler solution.  But the Pi is a tad faster and it subscribes to the same OpenDSN list, so little is gained by making this the Pi's secondary address:
Your comments:

I would love to hear your comments on this project. If you like the Pi-hole project, donate a few dollars their way; they deserve the support.  See the admin-login screens.

Originally published: 2017.11
2019.01  Rewritten and updated.
2019.10  Improved grammar; an editor's work is never done.